Disconnect hell returns.......ad110

[Revo2Maxx]

Very interesting and I wish you luck. Also might want to keep an eye on your wiring at 120' on cat6. As the awg for cat6 is only 23. and using a pair for each leg still only 21awg effective size, 4 on each leg would be 17awg and at 120 is still over the 10% power drop however if the Transformer is a good enough one (Will still get hot) but if it was good enough transformer it could still produce enough voltage that the camera could work. Reason that it works better now that you moved the AP close is because the doorbell camera no longer has to boost it wifi to get a connect and can now take all the power or most of the power to run the doorbell camera. I would guess that if someone was to press your button if it goes to a doorbell in your unit, 2 or 3 times before the camera would cut out. Because on a 16vac, 30va at 1 foot from power transformer with 18awg wire and a Digital chime set to 10 seconds after 4 presses of the camera it will go offline and Reboot with Connected to Network message. The Camera has 2 Large caps in it that keeps the camera Online when the button is pressed. IT can take 35sec to 1 min after power is removed for the system to go offline that is because the 2 Small Supper Caps need to Discharge. That is also why it takes a good bit of time for the camera to start and get ready to go online when power it first given to the camera.. Without the 2 large Caps that camera wouldn't work at 120' and you might want to keep an eye on your Transformer because right now if you were to use a Thermal Camera on it I am going to guess it is in a good 100 degree area and at that distance and that cabling if it isn't 100 or hotter I want 1..

[rrhammond]

Again I agree that voltage is important. but I like to talk a little bit more about this and your comments. I checked the transformer and it does not feel warm, My thermometer, (it works for covid) registers as "lo" or less the 89 degrees. All my Camera are POE (Power over Ethernet) except the door bell. The POE standard for individual Network ports is 15W, with surges to a max of 30W. According to Tech support my POE IR/PTZ Cameras draw a Max of 8W to 11W. (Infra red, Pan Tilt Zoom). The camera spec for Network cable is 100M (328ft) on cat5e and greater. The issue is that POE is 48V (Passive POE is 24V) and I think higher voltage has more range. The POE spec takes in to account voltage drop for hardwired cameras. A PBL-2 Nutone doorbell bulb is rated at 15W, but likely uses 3 W. My guess is that door bell without PTZ, but with Infrared and door bell light still uses less than 15W. So strictly for the door bell the Cat 6 should work fine. Ringing the Mechanical chimes is really the voltage issue. Several of my neighbors have "network problems" when they have more than 2 amazon fire sticks stream on their TV's. So again, I think the basic problem is internal NETWORK contention, Or WIFI Channel contention. Thanks for the discussion.

[zeroohm]

Just installed mine the other day and not very impressed with this device with issues like this. I have solid power on new 18AWG wiring from a 40VA transformer with no chime on it (had no existing doorbell to tie to) so power is good. Mine was restarting exactly every 5 minutes (plus or minus a second or two) tonight until I disabled night vision, then it stopped rebooting. I let it run for a while then reenabled night vision and, sure enough, it restarted 5 minutes later.

Is there any advanced logging we can turn on for debugging?

@gunso , did you find a solution to your problem? I have turned off Night Vision and my reboots have stopped and no more disconnections. Is this a defect or a feature? My transformer is 16V 10VA. I could replace it with a 30VA transformer if that is what others have done to resolve this. Don't want to waste my time if that does not fix it.

[Revo2Maxx]

10va isn't big enough

So let me try to be clear.. While a 10va Transformer is kind of big enough to run the camera under normal day time setting that does not count for button press, FW Updates, IR and loads of Motion events with audio and or even if the camera is far from the Wifi and it needs to boost the power some to get a good connection with all them things added to the normal daily use the camera can and will fail.. Right now I have a 16vac 30va and I have my app setup for 7 seconds to play my Digital chime.. I can test and have tested this a few times and get the same results every time. Press my button and let tone play as soon as I hear the click of the relay in the doorbell camera I press button again let tone play in house hear click in camera press again.. After it is done the 3rd time if Pressed the 4th time the camera will ring the doorbell and the camera will go offline.. However with IR on this will only go 3 times before offline event..

So the need for 16vac 30va is real.. There needs to be the current to charge the caps back up after a button press fast. Also to keep the camera running smoothly in a large motion event where it is recording or msd, sending data to server and staying connected to the router. You add night time IR camera on 10va will fail there is not enough power from transformer to keep the charge of the caps in the camera topped off and they are to small to carry enough current to keep camera going more then 25 seconds when on a good power supply when power is removed with IR on..

People need to understand that the camera is packed with many circuits inside doing a lot of tasks starve it of power will only make things not work..

If we think of it in a way say that a laptop works. Once a laptop battery starts to go to far down the laptop starts to shut down things to try and save power to make other things work little longer and most times for all my Laptops anyway first to go on my Gaming laptop is the 1050 Video reverts to the Intel i7 graphics the second is the wifi and if that happens it is time to plug in or turn it off lol as it will not be long before the system does a complete fail where my other laptops don't have a other graphics card so first to go is wifi..

[rrhammond]

I use a mechanical chime. One quick "ding dong". For me The AD110 has not failed when pushed repeatably. I did not test to see if there is an Upper Limited, my wife and dog vehemently objects. It sound like we have two distinct issues. I noted your tests involved Digital Chimes, mine is a Mechanical ding dong Bell. So I might conclude that Chimes has longer voltage draw, and require more time to complete its ring. Its sounds like your voltage solution really has to do with the ringing of digital Chimes or the use of Multiple doorbells. I do know that Westminster Chimes type doorbells use more power. My issue was not voltage, but network contention.
Great discussion!

[Revo2Maxx]

Glad to hear you found your issue.. sadly there is great talk of people with low or to little Power and things of sorts.. Also there is mention of Network being an issue as well if not in this thread there are a good few of them..

[Thoughts4You]

Doorbell is offline. It has been running just fine until today. Anyone else's just randomly go offline?

[Revo2Maxx]

No only time mine was randomly disconnecting was caused by my NVR and my accidently changing something that made the camera upset. After a Router reboot and camera reboot I had to do a Reset to get it back and happy. I even did a NVR Reset thinking it was an issue with my NVR it wasn't until after I reboot and Reset everything else before i figured it was Camera. Once reset it was fine. Almost to the point of just leaving it offline from other source of Recording to keep it happy.. If it wasn't for the fact I have moved my Mic off the Front I would have already removed my Doorbell from the Recorder however it is being used for keeping Audio on the front of the house. I have other mics just not one I like to replace with the doorbells mic..